Posts tagged ‘Tasting Table’

May 21st, 2010

Flour Power: I Trulli’s handmade pastas are a family affair

by jenny

Most restaurants that offer house-made pasta want you to think it’s crafted by a real Italian grandmother, even when the reality is more often a scruffy 20-something who’s never been to Italy.

Unless, of course, you’re dining at I Trulli.

There, the high priestess of the pasta station is Dora Marzovilla, the 74-year-old mother of owner Nicola Marzovilla.

Since I Trulli’s opening almost 16 years ago, the elder Marzovilla has been rolling out snakes of dough, breaking off nubs and deftly fashioning them into a variety of precise shapes. Her delicate ear-shaped orecchiette make perfect vessels for a rich rabbit ragù, and pillows of ravioli encase creamy Robiola cheese.  …

Read the rest of the story on Tasting Table.

Photo courtesy of I Trulli restaurant.

May 19th, 2010

Born to Rum: The latest hidden bar is more sunny than somber

by jenny

This story originally appeared on Tasting Table.

In certain bar-going circles, the only spots worth visiting are those without a sign.

Although Cienfuegos–a new rum-driven bar from Ravi DeRossi (of Death & Co. and Mayahuel fame)–fits this criterion, its cheery vibe is a direct departure from the earnest, often somber environment of other “speakeasies.”

After entering through sandwich shop Carteles and shimmying up an unadorned metal staircase, you’ll be greeted by Latin music and a sunny room sponge-painted in pink and pistachio green. A tile-splashed bar, chunky chandeliers and open windows all suggest Havana in its heyday.

The cocktail menu continues the tone of sun-drenched levity, but rest assured, these drinks are no joke. There are classics like the Ernesto, a rum-maraschino-grapefruit mash-up, and the watermelon-tinted Rosa Verde shows its swagger by employing bartending trends like fancy bitters (celery) and house-made syrups (arugula).

All drinks are available in single servings or in various sizes of punch bowls. Communal imbibing is fun, but hungry drinkers should order solo when it comes to the Cubanitos. The finger-food versions of Carteles’ Cubano sandwich are so rich with house-roasted pork and garlicky mustard that you won’t want to part with them.

Cienfuegos (enter through Carteles), 443 E. Sixth St. (between First Ave. and Avenue A); 212-614-6818

April 28th, 2010

Frozen Fusion: MilkMade's ingenious ice cream mash-ups

by jenny

This story originally appeared on Tasting Table.MilkMade

When the partners behind MilkMade–a new ice cream delivery service–set out to make ice cream using local ingredients, they were thinking about milk and eggs sourced from the Union Square Greenmarket.

But soon it became apparent that they could take the notion further. When co-founder Diana Hardeman was dreaming up a “Coffee and Donuts” flavor, inspiration struck: She took Crop to Cup’s Uganda Bugisu coffee and combined it with Doughnut Plant doughnuts.

This mash-up of morning flavors beget more creative combinations.Tuthilltown Spirits’ bourbon spiced up a frozen hot-toddy flavor, andSugar Sweet Sunshine bakery supplied cupcakes for red-velvet ice cream. This month, subscribers can opt for “Twist & Stout,” made with Sixpointbrewery’s Otis Oatmeal Stout.

Hardeman and her business partner, Michelle Truong, have met more small purveyors at the Greenpoint Food Market, where they’ve been selling their ice cream. At the moment, they’re dreaming up a way to usePumpkin & Honey Bunny soda and are set to link up with Sigmund Pretzelshop. “We look at it as an opportunity to collaborate,” Hardeman says. “We focus on companies that we think are doing something great.”

Read the original story on Tasting Table.

April 12th, 2010

Grape Performances: A new form of clandestine drinking

by jenny

This story originally appeared on Tasting Table.The Noble Rot wine eventGiven the supper club mania in the city, it was only a matter of time before one-off gatherings with an alternative focus flooded the scene.

For the rogue wine lover, that gathering is the Noble Rot, “a traveling wine saloon,” founded by musician Brian Quinn and actor Jonny Cristaldi; they drew inspiration from Whisk & Ladle, an underground operation run by friends.

The duo launched the wine-centered meet-up last July with a party that featured great bottles under $10. Since then, Quinn and Cristaldi have hosted frequent events that are equal parts education and entertainment, including an October harvest party in Brooklyn ($40) and an ode to Chardonnay in Tribeca ($35) …

Read the rest of the story on Tasting Table.